A fortress of mud
Ait Ben Haddou is a ksar — a fortified village of mud and straw — located at the gateway to the Sahara, on the caravan route between Marrakech and the desert. Its walls are centuries old and have been part of UNESCO's World Heritage since 1987.
It was built over the course of the 11th century as a resting point for the caravans crossing the Sahara laden with gold, salt, ivory and slaves. Today a few families still live inside the fortress, though most have moved to the village opposite.
The film set
Hollywood discovered it decades ago. Films shot here include:
- Lawrence of Arabia (1962)
- Gladiator (2000) — Russell Crowe arrives at Zucchabar through these walls
- The Sheltering Sky
- Babel
- Prince of Persia
- Game of Thrones — Daenerys conquers Yunkai here
- Jesus of Nazareth
Visiting Ait Ben Haddou
The visit takes 1-2 hours. You cross the river (sometimes dry, sometimes knee-deep in water), climb up narrow alleys to the top of the hill and from up there you have a 360° view of the valley. The best time: early in the morning or at sunset, when the light turns the mud golden.
On the way up there are craftsmen's shops and galleries with paintings on saffron and tea that are revealed over a flame: tourist tricks, but fun.
Combine it with
Ait Ben Haddou is 4 hours from Marrakech via the Tizi n'Tichka road (a mountain pass at 2,260m). It's almost always done on the way to the desert. Other nearby stops: Ouarzazate ("the Moroccan Hollywood", with the Atlas Studios) and the Dades Valley.
