Fez el-Bali: medieval Morocco
The Fez medina (officially Fez el-Bali, "the old one") is the largest medieval urban area in the world still inhabited, and the oldest in Morocco: founded in the 9th century. A World Heritage Site since 1981.
Within its walls live around 150,000 people among 9,000 alleys. There are no cars — only donkeys, small motorbikes and pedestrians. It's impossible to find your way: hire an official guide on the first day (10-15€) to get your bearings, then you can go back and get lost on your own.
The Chouara tanneries
The most famous and impressive in the world. They have been operating since the 11th century, exactly as they did then: the leather is soaked in vats of lime and pigeon droppings (yes, really) to clean it, and then in others with natural dyes (saffron, henna, indigo, poppy).
To see them, the terraces of the surrounding leather shops give you a view. They'll hand you a sprig of mint — hold it to your nose, the smell is strong.
Other essentials
- Al-Qarawiyyin University: founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri. Considered by UNESCO the oldest university in the world still in operation.
- Bou Inania Madrasa: the best preserved, with intricate zellige and carved wood.
- Bab Bou Jeloud: the blue gate, the most photographed entrance.
- Jnan Sbil Garden: 7 hectares of Andalusian gardens, ideal for a rest from the chaos.
- Mellah: the old Jewish quarter, next to the Royal Palace.
Why sleep in Fez
Fez isn't just "see the medina and leave". It's the cultural and religious capital of Morocco. The Moroccan upper classes often speak of "being from Fez" as a mark of distinction. Its cuisine is the best in the country (the fessis are the great masters of Moroccan cooking).
Book at least 2 nights in a riad inside the medina.
